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The Plain Needlewoman

~ Quilt Study, Sewing, Vintage Textiles, Collecting quilts and other old odds and ends.

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Category Archives: old sewing books

The Lost Ships – circa 1890s

30 Wednesday Nov 2016

Posted by mcinnesjanette in antique fabric, antique quilts, hand piecing, hand quilting, old fabrics, Old Quilts, old sewing books, Quilt Collections, Quilt Stories, Scrap quilts, stitching, Uncategorized, vintage quilts

≈ 10 Comments

img_4742Seventy-Two  Lost Ship Blocks are set diagonally with a red and black print to create this stunning quilt. The blocks are pieced using a different fabric design in each block.  These fabrics are complimented with a lovely cream and brown design.

 

img_4787

The quilt contains a block where the maker found herself short of one print and pieced a section of the ship with a different but similar colour.

 

img_4780

 

The fabrics used consist of florals, plaids, geometric designs and a few very unusual patterns.  The maker had a good supply of scraps as well as the red and cream.  The quilt displays 75 print fabrics. The scrap pieces may well have been dressmaking fabrics but obviously the red and cream was purchased for quilt making.

 

img_4778img_4777img_4788

The piecework and quilting is very well executed.  I presume this quilt was made by a talented and experienced needlewoman.  The quilt is finished with the quilt front neatly rolled over to the back to create the binding.   It is stitched in place with tiny, neat stitches. The backing is a plain homespun.  The quilt appears to have never been washed.

The quilt measures 66 inches by 84 inches and the  block measures just under  5  inches.

 

img_4798

In Ruth E. Finley’s book ‘Old Patchwork Quilts and The Women Who Made Them’ published in 1929, Finley refers to this pattern  “A pattern that was popular below the Mason and Dixon Line was called Rocky Glen though in the fishing villages of the Seaboard, where it was frequently employed, it was known as The Lost Ship.” So this is the name I shall use for this wonderful quilt which I am very happy to have to add to my collection.

Thank you for visiting and best wishes for your quilting endeavours, very warmly, Janette

The Plain Needlewoman.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fabrics and Styles in Double Wedding Ring Quilts.

31 Wednesday Dec 2014

Posted by mcinnesjanette in hand quilting, old fabrics, old quilt tops, old sewing books, stitching, vintage quilts

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

1930s quilts, Antique Quilts, Fabric Study, feed sacks, handquilting, old quilt tops, quilt collections

The Double Wedding Ring pattern was one of the most popular patterns made during the Great Depression Era. Although a difficult pattern to piece it was made many times over. Double Wedding Ring quilts still remain a favourite with today’s quilters.

Vintage Double Wedding Ring Quilt

Vintage Double Wedding Ring Quilt

Detail of quilt

Detail of quilt

Backing in that green!

Backing in that green!

Laser cut templates, paper piecing and books devoted entirely to constructing the Double Wedding Ring pattern are readily available. However, the older quilts show some variation of the numbers of pieces of fabric in the arcs. Perhaps patterns were used from the syndicated newspaper columns popular in the 30s or patterns were adapted to make use of what was in the quilter’s scrap basket.

The yellow and green in this quilt clearly identify it as a 1930’s to 40’s quilt. This quilt was probably made from the scrap basket as it also contains shirtings, dimities, plains and a liberal use of a gorgeous red polka dot. The red polka dot fabric reminds me of confetti. This quilt is beautifully stitched, with six fabric pieces in each arc set against two pinks and a green. The background is yellow and the backing is Thirties Green. The hand quilting is neat and even. This quilt was purchased by The Donnellys in October 1997 at Buckhannon, West Virginia.

1930s Wedding ring quilt top

1930s Wedding ring quilt top

Detail of quilt top

Detail of quilt top

Another quilt from the thirties contains a fabulous array of dainty florals and prints. This quilter chose to use 12 fabrics in her arcs, enabling her to use many designs throughout the quilt. The background is a fine weave cotton and the arcs are set with green and yellow. A wonderful collection of prints, plaids, florals, checks, stripes and geometrics were used in this top.

A treasured fragment

A treasured fragment

Another example of a 1930s Wedding Ring can be seen in this quilt fragment. A notable feature of this quilt is the use of Prairie Points to finish off the curved edges. The arcs consist of seven pieces and are set with pink and green patterned fabrics. The quilting was done in the Hanging Diamond pattern. I love this little fragment and can only wonder at what an exquisite quilt it must have been.

My Double Wedding Ring quilt

My Double Wedding Ring quilt

IMG_2228

I completed my Double Wedding Ring quilt in 1996. There are six pieces in the arcs and they are set with a red and tan solid. I was inspired to make this quilt from a photo of an antique quilt in a Hallmark Calendar. I used primarily checks, plaids,stripes and geometrics. There are very few florals used in my quilt. I machine pieced this quilt and it is hand quilted. I carried the check and plaid theme through to the backing, using up all the remaining fabrics.

Pieced backing

Pieced backing

I hope you enjoy studying the Double Wedding Ring quilts. Thank you for stopping by, Janette, A Plain Needlewoman

The Stars Are Shining Bright

13 Saturday Dec 2014

Posted by mcinnesjanette in hand quilting, old fabrics, old quilt tops, old sewing books, vintage quilts

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

hand quilting, old quilt tops, quilt collections, reproduction fabrics, vintage quilts

The Variable Star Quilt Top

The Variable Star Quilt Top

Star Designs are one of the most numerous and splendid of all quilt patterns. If you only made quilts featuring Stars you would have many beautiful quilts.

The Variable Star quilt top is a recent purchase from my friends and quilt collectors The Donnellys. Eileen and Bernie identify this quilt as a ‘Time Span’ quilt. The Donnelly’s date this top as being stitched from Circa 1880 to 1930. A Time Span quilt is a quilt which has been made over a period of time, and in this case it is over quite a long period. The fabrics appear to be dress cottons including some fabulous shirtings, turkey reds, double pinks, a 30’s dark maroon and some pretty florals, stripes and gingham.

Dark Maroon and floral print circa 1930s

Dark Maroon and floral print circa 1930s

Shirtings circa 1880s

Shirtings circa 1880s

Another from the 30s.

Another from the 30s.

I love the way the maker of this Variable Star quilt placed similar colours together making for a very strong focal point. This practice seems to be common in older quilts, whereas today we would place them apart.

Reds side by side

Reds side by side

In studying and documenting this quilt Eileen has noted ‘The patchworker has essentially used the same pattern when assembling the blocks but occasionally she seems to have reversed the pieces, and also altered the centre of some blocks. She has therefore created the impression of different block patterns forming the quilt. Perhaps, as it took so long to make she made some blocks without looking at the ones already constructed and just forgot which pattern she was following.’ Many of us can relate to this.

Variation in design

Variation in design

Also noteworthy is the pink setting squares and bright blue sashes and borders. The Donnellys purchased this top from James Carrol through the Quilt Loft at Groton, Massachusetts, USA in 1996.

When I first saw the Variable Star top I loved it immediately. I thought it was the same block that I had used in a quilt I had recently completed. However, on returning home and placing the two together, I realised that my design is another variable.

Constellation Star

Constellation Star

I had long admired this quilt from the book ‘In The Beginning’ published by That Patchwork Place in the Quilt Shop Series and written by Sharon Evans Yenter. Sharon calls this quilt Constellation Star and I think it is also known as Annie’s Choice. Which ever name you prefer it is a lovely design. I drafted the pattern for rotary cutting and machine piecing. I made it a fraction smaller to make use of my collection of reproduction fat 16ths. The lattice and borders are vintage fabric that proved difficult to hand quilt, but the colour is just perfect. As my block is smaller than Yenter’s I made 36 blocks, which is the same number as in the Variable Star quilt top.

In The Beginning

In The Beginning

Inspiration from the book

Inspiration from the book

The Constellation Star Quilt is dated Circa 1910. Perhaps there are similar fabrics as in the Variable Star.

I think my Constellation Star Quilt could be described as a ‘Time Span’ Quilt as well. It contains some vintage fabrics, including shirtings. It has been inspired by an old quilt from a book that was first published in 1992. I pieced and quilted the Constellation Star during 2013 and 2014.

Finished quilt showing reproduction backing fabric

Finished quilt showing reproduction backing fabric

Constellation Star prior to binding

Constellation Star prior to binding

May all your Stars shine brightly,
Janette – The Plain Needlewoman

All Things Thirties

04 Thursday Dec 2014

Posted by mcinnesjanette in appliqué, hand quilting, old fabrics, old sewing books, vintage quilts

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

1930s quilts, Fabric Study, feed sacks, hand quilting, old quilts, vintage quilts

China Swans in Shades of Green

China Swans in Shades of Green

An early childhood memory of mine is of our cream and green kitchen. This lovely soft colour scheme was replaced in the 60s by a much brighter colour scheme. Every cupboard door (and there were many) was painted alternating colours of hot pink, aqua, yellow and red. We thought it was fab.

Green and cream colours for the kitchen

Green and cream colours for the kitchen

Bright colours for brighter times

Bright colours for brighter times

It is understandable following the decades of the depression era and World War 2, that bright colours became popular as the world celebrated peace and prosperity.

Quilt Designs from the Thirties by Sara Nephew

Quilt Designs from the Thirties by Sara Nephew

During the Great Depression quilters turned to soft, pretty colours to use in their quilts. There was a multitude of patterned fabrics to choose from. These dainty prints were more often than not offset with bleached calico and a solid colour. Nile green was a favoured choice. In the book ‘Quilt Designs from the Thirties’ by Sara Nephew,
Nephew states ‘Many of the colours of this period are pastels or softened colours. Most common among these are ‘thirties green’, pink, lavender, a buttery yellow, a light blue or blue green, and soft brown or tan. Popular solids also included a strong burgundy, a bright, clear red and a bright clear blue’.

Original greens.

Original greens.

If you have the chance to buy reproduction or vintage fabric in these shades, don’t hesitate. It is invaluable in reproducing quilts with the look of this era.

Reproduction Green, pieced with contemporary, vintage and reproduction fabrics.

Reproduction Green, pieced with contemporary, vintage and reproduction fabrics.

Missouri Daisy quilt made with reproduction and vintage fabrics. Includes some feed sacks.

Missouri Daisy quilt made with reproduction and vintage fabrics. Includes some feed sacks.

I love working with both vintage and reproduction fabrics from the 30s and 40s and look forward to sharing future posts on All Things Thirties.

Happy Making, Janette

Fabric Study in Old Quilts

19 Wednesday Nov 2014

Posted by mcinnesjanette in hand quilting, old fabrics, old sewing books, vintage quilts

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

1850s-1870s quilts, Antique Quilts, Fabric Study, hand quilting, old sewing books, The Donnellys, vintage quilts

Four Poster Bed Quilt

Four Poster Bed Quilt

Straight Furrow - Log Cabin Quilt

Straight Furrow – Log Cabin Quilt

These two quilts came into my collection from ‘The Donnellys’.

They purchased the Four Poster Bed quilt in 1997 in Groton, Massachusetts, USA from The Quilt Loft. This was owned by Diane Reese who has a Master’s Degree in Antique American Textiles from Boston University.

The quilt is dated circa 1876, which is substantiated by the fabrics used as they are very distinctive. A lovely fine red and white stripe fabric was used for the sashing, borders and binding. The quilt is backed with a coffee coloured linen type fabric that was possibly a homespun fabric. It is beautifully pieced and features well executed hand quilting. The red and white stripe fabric sets off the nine patch blocks beautifully and lends the quilt a timeless quality.

Detail of the nine patch blocks and sashing

Detail of the nine patch blocks and sashing

Fabric detail to study

Fabric detail to study

There is no other information available regarding this quilt but Bernie and Eileen did see George Washington’s bed at Mt.Vernon in Virginia, it was a four poster and they were surprised that it was so short.

Quilt Collectors - Eileen and Bernie Donnelly

Quilt Collectors – Eileen and Bernie Donnelly

The Log Cabin quilt was passed on to me by Eileen and Bernie as they thought I might have the time and patience to repair this very old but still beautiful quilt. It contains a stunning collection of fabrics including many shirtings. It is very faded and has worn to shreds in some sections.

Log Cabin block detail

Log Cabin block detail

Log Cabin Construction Method

Log Cabin Construction Method

Primarily Patchwork published in 1975 includes detailed construction method of foundation piecing log cabin quilts

Primarily Patchwork published in 1975 includes a detailed construction method of foundation piecing log cabin quilts.

However, the worn areas allow for studying the method of construction. The strips have been foundation pieced onto squares of patterned and plain fabrics. The squares were then stitched together and backed with a plain homespun. There is minimal hand quilting, also with a linen or coarse cotton thread. The Donnelly’s believe this quilt to be circa 1850s to 1860s. The process of repairing this quilt is ongoing. I am re-stitching the strips back onto their foundation block and in some instances the fabrics have frayed away completely. I trim these off to reveal the foundation fabric underneath which is quite fascinating to discover. Although the Log Cabin quilt is very fragile now, its beauty will be enjoyed for another generation and provide a unique study of the old fabrics.

Still beautiful Still beautiful

Happy Quilting, Janette

A Rescue Mission

26 Sunday Oct 2014

Posted by mcinnesjanette in appliqué, old fabrics, old sewing books, vintage quilts

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

applique, hand quilting, old quilts, old sewing books, vintage fabrics, vintage quilts

I was entrusted with this quilt which I have named Prairie Rose from the quilt collectors Bernie and Eileen Donnelly.

When I first saw this quilt I could see that it had been well made, the button hole stitching on the appliqué and the hand quilting with a perle thread was extremely well executed. Although faded over time the colours are still very pleasing – soft apricot, green and blue on the white background.

Prairie Rose quilt in it's original state

Prairie Rose quilt in it’s original state

There were two rather large holes and the curved blue binding was in tatters. The quilt was reasonably clean considering it has such a large area of white and had obviously been well used.

Removing the binding

Removing the binding

Preparation for repairing

Preparation for repairing

A soak in Retro Clean

A soak in Retro Clean

Retro Clean

Retro Clean

I decided to give this quilt a soak in Retro Clean to remove some of the stains and to generally freshen it up.
After a good soak in the old wash tub I transferred it to the washing machine and washed it on the gentle cycle. As it was a nice sunny day the quilt dried very quickly and I could plan the steps for repairing it.

I decided to cut off the old binding. This also removed some of the damaged areas which were near the edge of the quilt. There were two large tears remaining, that I thought I would be able to patch. Apart from that the quilt was looking very pretty.

this book contains a wonderful chapter on darning and patching

this book contains a wonderful chapter on darning and patching

Following the steps on patching in The Big Book of Needlecraft I proceeded to repair the damaged areas.

Patch placed on the wrong side of the quilt

Patch placed on the wrong side of the quilt

A neat patch in place

A neat patch in place

The next step in repairing the quilt was to re-do the binding. Rummaging through my collection of old fabric and trialling a couple of blues, I found a nice old, blue gingham. Gingham is a favourite of mine and it has a timeless quality. I cut many metres on the bias and machine stitched it onto the quilt. The hand sewing of the curved binding was a slow but rewarding process. I was very happy with the fresh look the gingham provided.

I now have a lovely new/old quilt. I think this quilt was made circa 1940s. It was probably a kit quilt with the quilting and appliqué placement pre marked. The original quilt maker chose thicker threads to appliqué and quilt with, giving this quilt another dimension in texture and colour. I haven’t been able to identify an exact pattern name for this design but I think Prairie Rose suits it very well.

Restored Quilt

Restored Quilt

I thank the quilt maker of the past who so lovingly stitched this quilt and I hope I have honoured her workmanship and I will enjoy having this quilt in my collection. Happy Quilting from Janette, A Plain Needlewoman.

Sewing

03 Wednesday Sep 2014

Posted by mcinnesjanette in appliqué, old fabrics, old sewing books, vintage quilts

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Beautiful Illustration

Beautiful Illustration

This beautiful illustration is from a book published in 1973 by Octopus Books called Sewing by Honor Gillot. Old sewing books are a great source of information. They also provide a nostalgic look back on the styles and techniques of the era they were published in.

The Big Book of Needlecraft

The Big Book of Needlecraft

This wonderful book which unfortunately doesn’t include the date it was published, but does state that it was printed in London. It contains a wealth of information including simple dressmaking, embroidery, rug making, weaving, quilting and appliqué. The chapter on darning and patching is extremely informative with simple illustrations. I will be trying out the recommended method of patching on an old quilt that I have in my collection that requires a little bit of TLC.

Pre-loved appliqué quilt

Pre-loved appliqué quilt

The workmanship on this quilt is exquisite and with a patch here and there and a new binding I think it will come up a treat. I will let you know of my progress. Happy Sewing, Janette

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